Search found 2219 matches

by Ian S C
Fri Nov 18, 2011 3:55 am
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: Building Grizzly Stirling Engine
Replies: 9
Views: 7612

Re: Building Grizzly Stirling Engine

I got the motor I mentioned earlier going last night, Its a little beam engine, 1/2" stroke, the power cylinder is 3/8" bore, and the displacer is 1\2" bore, the displacer cylinder is made from the steel case of a AA size Ni Cad battery. It runs that freely that it will run without th...
by Ian S C
Thu Nov 17, 2011 4:08 am
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: Plumbing solder and seals
Replies: 3
Views: 3770

Re: Plumbing solder and seals

Solder may work for a short time, white metal that is used for bearing metal would be better, its similar, but has other metals in it such as Antimony which is the actual bearing metal heldin place by the tin lead alloy. Hold the metal rod above a candle flame, and get a coating of soot/ lamp black ...
by Ian S C
Wed Nov 16, 2011 7:45 pm
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: advice on a newly built sirtiling
Replies: 7
Views: 3000

Re: advice on a newly built sirtiling

For the displacer bush I use one of three different materials, brass, cast iron, and Teflon. Brass is possibly your best bet as availablity goes. Cast iron if you can get it, and can work with it. Get a brass bolt, and drill a hole through the length of it. You should not run steel against steel, or...
by Ian S C
Wed Nov 16, 2011 3:48 am
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: advice on a newly built sirtiling
Replies: 7
Views: 3000

Re: advice on a newly built sirtiling

The gap between the displacer and its cylinder is far too big,1.5 mm, or maybe 2 mm is about right. The displacer cylinder at 1 mm is OK. The displace its self must be as light as possible, and no leaks, I'm affraid that I often, when making mild steel displacers end up making two or three, because ...
by Ian S C
Tue Nov 15, 2011 3:29 am
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: work on tin can engine
Replies: 19
Views: 11548

Re: work on tin can engine

Anti, your diagram is very nearly another useful tool called a D bit. the flat should be on half diameter, or maybe .002" more, there is a little to do with shapeing the front end. These are best made of silver steel/ drill rod, and hardened and tempered. Ian S C
by Ian S C
Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:07 pm
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: work on tin can engine
Replies: 19
Views: 11548

Re: work on tin can engine

There is a sketch of a tool makers reamer on my pic gallery, have not worked out how to get it on here yet. Ian S C
by Ian S C
Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:44 am
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: work on tin can engine
Replies: 19
Views: 11548

Re: work on tin can engine

For drilling the way you do, make the hole in the wood a bit smaller, and screw the bolt into the wood, then drill, but only about 1 mm at a time, use a high speed, your drill press won't go too fast, 2500 rpm is the recomended speed for brass. Some brass can be a bit tricky to drill. After drilling...
by Ian S C
Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:16 am
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: Soldering
Replies: 18
Views: 11606

Re: Soldering

If your going to make things out of brass that gets hot, you'll need to use silver solder. brass is not the best material to be using at the hot end of a stirling engine. Ian S C
by Ian S C
Sun Nov 13, 2011 5:22 am
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: First Gamma Engine
Replies: 6
Views: 5079

Re: First Gamma Engine

You can get some idea of hot end temperature by the colour of the displacer, find a chart of tempering colours for steel (thats if the displacer is steel), for the cold end, i think you can get a non contact IR thermometer, The hot end won't be much more than 700*C or so, and the cold end, with effe...
by Ian S C
Sun Nov 13, 2011 5:07 am
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: advice on a newly built sirtiling
Replies: 7
Views: 3000

Re: advice on a newly built sirtiling

Manusha, is you hot end thined down, or is it full thickness? What is the gap between the bore of the hot end and the diplacer? On your power piston, is it the origional motor cycle one, with rings? The motor ifits going to run should be able to turn quite easily, and if the motor can be relieved of...
by Ian S C
Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:50 pm
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: beta engine design
Replies: 13
Views: 9229

Re: beta engine design

dwchio, The best books that I have are by James G. Rizzo, the first, a paper back "Modelling Stirling and Hot Air Engines", the second is vol 1 "The Stirling Engine Manual". There is a second volume of the "Stirling Engine Manual" which is a bit more advanced than the f...
by Ian S C
Thu Nov 10, 2011 2:52 am
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: Soldering
Replies: 18
Views: 11606

Re: Soldering

If the copper pipe is being fitted to the side of the can, contour the end of it so that it fits snuggly against the curve of the tin, don't try and fill large gaps with solder, the close gap will give a stronger joint. A gap of between .001" (maximum strength), and .010" should be aimed a...
by Ian S C
Tue Nov 08, 2011 4:37 pm
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: cork as a displacer?
Replies: 4
Views: 4428

Re: cork as a displacer?

Jim, you could prevent the flexing by putting a few vertical partions, sort of a honey comb effect, and maybe some sort of sealer like model aeroplane dope, that also strengthens the balsa without adding much weight. It would only be worth it if the displacer was say 1/2" thick or more. Ian S C
by Ian S C
Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:52 pm
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: The rider water pump
Replies: 9
Views: 7115

Re: The rider water pump

This motor is an atmospheric type, so air is the only real option, helium, like (but not to the same effect) hydrogen will actually leak through the metal that the motor is built of, apart from any gap how ever small. its OK in a sealed, pressurised motor, but the problems start with the sealed bit!...
by Ian S C
Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:36 pm
Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
Topic: First Gamma Engine
Replies: 6
Views: 5079

Re: First Gamma Engine

Stirlinguptrouble, first recomendation:If it's your first engine, get a published design from a proven designer like James G. Rizzo, or someone similar. 2, is the motor being built in a workshop with machinery, ie., a lathe, and brazing gear. 3 its important to use the correct materials to get the b...