Search found 2219 matches
- Fri Nov 18, 2011 3:55 am
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: Building Grizzly Stirling Engine
- Replies: 9
- Views: 7612
Re: Building Grizzly Stirling Engine
I got the motor I mentioned earlier going last night, Its a little beam engine, 1/2" stroke, the power cylinder is 3/8" bore, and the displacer is 1\2" bore, the displacer cylinder is made from the steel case of a AA size Ni Cad battery. It runs that freely that it will run without th...
- Thu Nov 17, 2011 4:08 am
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: Plumbing solder and seals
- Replies: 3
- Views: 3770
Re: Plumbing solder and seals
Solder may work for a short time, white metal that is used for bearing metal would be better, its similar, but has other metals in it such as Antimony which is the actual bearing metal heldin place by the tin lead alloy. Hold the metal rod above a candle flame, and get a coating of soot/ lamp black ...
- Wed Nov 16, 2011 7:45 pm
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: advice on a newly built sirtiling
- Replies: 7
- Views: 3000
Re: advice on a newly built sirtiling
For the displacer bush I use one of three different materials, brass, cast iron, and Teflon. Brass is possibly your best bet as availablity goes. Cast iron if you can get it, and can work with it. Get a brass bolt, and drill a hole through the length of it. You should not run steel against steel, or...
- Wed Nov 16, 2011 3:48 am
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: advice on a newly built sirtiling
- Replies: 7
- Views: 3000
Re: advice on a newly built sirtiling
The gap between the displacer and its cylinder is far too big,1.5 mm, or maybe 2 mm is about right. The displacer cylinder at 1 mm is OK. The displace its self must be as light as possible, and no leaks, I'm affraid that I often, when making mild steel displacers end up making two or three, because ...
- Tue Nov 15, 2011 3:29 am
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: work on tin can engine
- Replies: 19
- Views: 11548
Re: work on tin can engine
Anti, your diagram is very nearly another useful tool called a D bit. the flat should be on half diameter, or maybe .002" more, there is a little to do with shapeing the front end. These are best made of silver steel/ drill rod, and hardened and tempered. Ian S C
- Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:07 pm
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: work on tin can engine
- Replies: 19
- Views: 11548
Re: work on tin can engine
There is a sketch of a tool makers reamer on my pic gallery, have not worked out how to get it on here yet. Ian S C
- Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:44 am
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: work on tin can engine
- Replies: 19
- Views: 11548
Re: work on tin can engine
For drilling the way you do, make the hole in the wood a bit smaller, and screw the bolt into the wood, then drill, but only about 1 mm at a time, use a high speed, your drill press won't go too fast, 2500 rpm is the recomended speed for brass. Some brass can be a bit tricky to drill. After drilling...
- Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:16 am
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: Soldering
- Replies: 18
- Views: 11606
Re: Soldering
If your going to make things out of brass that gets hot, you'll need to use silver solder. brass is not the best material to be using at the hot end of a stirling engine. Ian S C
- Sun Nov 13, 2011 5:22 am
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: First Gamma Engine
- Replies: 6
- Views: 5079
Re: First Gamma Engine
You can get some idea of hot end temperature by the colour of the displacer, find a chart of tempering colours for steel (thats if the displacer is steel), for the cold end, i think you can get a non contact IR thermometer, The hot end won't be much more than 700*C or so, and the cold end, with effe...
- Sun Nov 13, 2011 5:07 am
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: advice on a newly built sirtiling
- Replies: 7
- Views: 3000
Re: advice on a newly built sirtiling
Manusha, is you hot end thined down, or is it full thickness? What is the gap between the bore of the hot end and the diplacer? On your power piston, is it the origional motor cycle one, with rings? The motor ifits going to run should be able to turn quite easily, and if the motor can be relieved of...
- Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:50 pm
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: beta engine design
- Replies: 13
- Views: 9229
Re: beta engine design
dwchio, The best books that I have are by James G. Rizzo, the first, a paper back "Modelling Stirling and Hot Air Engines", the second is vol 1 "The Stirling Engine Manual". There is a second volume of the "Stirling Engine Manual" which is a bit more advanced than the f...
- Thu Nov 10, 2011 2:52 am
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: Soldering
- Replies: 18
- Views: 11606
Re: Soldering
If the copper pipe is being fitted to the side of the can, contour the end of it so that it fits snuggly against the curve of the tin, don't try and fill large gaps with solder, the close gap will give a stronger joint. A gap of between .001" (maximum strength), and .010" should be aimed a...
- Tue Nov 08, 2011 4:37 pm
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: cork as a displacer?
- Replies: 4
- Views: 4428
Re: cork as a displacer?
Jim, you could prevent the flexing by putting a few vertical partions, sort of a honey comb effect, and maybe some sort of sealer like model aeroplane dope, that also strengthens the balsa without adding much weight. It would only be worth it if the displacer was say 1/2" thick or more. Ian S C
- Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:52 pm
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: The rider water pump
- Replies: 9
- Views: 7115
Re: The rider water pump
This motor is an atmospheric type, so air is the only real option, helium, like (but not to the same effect) hydrogen will actually leak through the metal that the motor is built of, apart from any gap how ever small. its OK in a sealed, pressurised motor, but the problems start with the sealed bit!...
- Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:36 pm
- Forum: Stirling and "Hot Air" Engine Forum
- Topic: First Gamma Engine
- Replies: 6
- Views: 5079
Re: First Gamma Engine
Stirlinguptrouble, first recomendation:If it's your first engine, get a published design from a proven designer like James G. Rizzo, or someone similar. 2, is the motor being built in a workshop with machinery, ie., a lathe, and brazing gear. 3 its important to use the correct materials to get the b...