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I have made some changes to the interior design. Aerodynamics are very important. This engine contains no steel wool now. Cylinder stays clean and shiny now. The steel wool compensates for bad proportions. There is absolutely no piston wear now that the steel wool has been removed. The noise you hea...

I came to the exact same conclusion. I did finally realize that I intentionally packed the wool tighter. Also ss wool at the end does much better than the spring. I also realized that the compression was too high for the large displacement volume. It seems that I can get more power and rpm if I go t...

http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo241/derwood38/DSCF1408.jpg http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo241/derwood38/DSCF1412.jpg http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo241/derwood38/DSCF1409.jpg I noticed that the ss wool inside the inner tube was burnt up in the area where the coils surround it. Not ...

Last night I cut the end cap off of the heating tube to expose the heat exchanger. I made some ss coils/springs just the right size to fit snuggly between the inner and outer tube. I made rings out of them and stacked them the entire length of the heat exchanger (3.5 in.). I stretched them out a lit...

It could be a characteristic of the all aluminum displacer cylinder.

Yes, it is similar. I would like to clear up a few statements I have made about my thermal lag engine. For anyone who has watched the latest video, I am sure you noticed the big square steel heat break. On earlier models I could not get the engine to run without it. It was compensating for something...

Although that would work good for my engine, My inner tube comes to a point at the head and the outer tube carries the air back and forth. There is a 3/16 in. gap between the inner and outer tube. With the increased compression I now realize that it needs a cooling system badly. When it gets to hot ...

Hi Derwood, If you can make a little shaped cone to the hot end SS tube, then the air could to move easier into the regenerator. The heat contact surface will be higher then with flat end much more. http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg49/bladeattila/thermallag_zps87b7d84a.png What software are you...

I am happy to say that my problem was heat exchanger design. Originally the inner tube stopped about 3.5 inches away from the end of the outer tube. The last 3.5 inches of the outer tube was thinned and filled with ss wool. It worked good on lower compression but when I increased compression the air...

I think your stroke is to long. Too much compression for the way you are heating it. try changing the stroke to half of the bore diameter. That would probably be a good place to start.

I have the hot end ss tube turned down to .025. I still have to pu it back together and test it.

Bore? Stroke? No leakage?

The piston already had some minor scaring from prior testing. It seems no matter what I use some small debris always ends up in the cylinder. I went back to stainless scrubber and performance was the same as before. I am going to make a new exchanger with even thinner stainless tube. The engine ran ...

as far as thermal lag goes I have found that once the engine gets up to peak operating temp it begins to slowly lose power. cooling the cylinder results in more power loss and it begins to run better after the cylinder warms up again. I see it as a balance of hot on one end cool on the other end and...

I would like to add that even though the copper showed better power it eventually got brittle and started to break up into pieces.