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You might find this interesting.......

http://youtu.be/Lg6Z6-N4eIA

I am reposting the free piston version of my lamina flow engine.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yzzqURVAZY[/youtube]

Correct me if I am wrong but I was thinking that my engine is 210 cc. Isn't the displacment half of the total stroke volume. I have to bleed off the pressure at half stroke at start up, so I am assuming that only half of the total volume is being displaced.

Yes, I am going to use a drip system very soon just to see if a power increase results. When I started this project my cylinder to heat tube ratio was about 5.75. I am now down to 3 and I think it needs to lower even more. Last night I started using a 1.75 in. diameter heat tube. I was using a 2.8 d...

For anyone who is interested in building this type of engine, A heat break proves to be very important. I added a heat break between the heat tube and the cylinder and now the engine runs with the mild steel head and choke size was increased to 1 1/4 in. Power output is about the same and rpms are j...

Friction Is always an issue. Ball bearings would be a better choice but the fly wheel spins freely. When i spin it by hand without linkage it keeps turning for a good bit of time. When the engine is running I can grab the crank shaft and squeeze it firmly and the engine keeps running. After more tes...

First of all Dude, When you scale up, the proportions change due to heat exchange issues. There are also many other factors which make it impossible to just multiply by 10 and get 10 times more power.

The tests were to establish the effect of the 'Choke' on the engines performance and the results are quite enlightning. The best by far was the original cooler head with 80 x 1.2mm holes yet I was/am puzzled as to why the plain choke failed to improve the performance. Still thinking about the resul...

Geoff V wrote:Apologies for the distraction.

It is not a distraction.

Anymore demands?

derwood, had a look at your vidio, I wounder if a better weight distribution on your flywheels might help for a starter. It could be done by drilling a hole near the end of each arm, and put a bolt in, and add extra weight, this would be the equivalent of having a rim on the wheels, its out there w...

Tom Booth wrote:Wow! congratulations on getting it running!Out of curiosity, are you using any kind of regenerator ?

Thanks! As far as regenerator goes, I am using ss wool in the heat tube. I have the tube filled 2/3 full. I have not tried it without it yet.

Thought i would post a video of what I have so far. It's a short vid because I could not find my memory card to the camera. I think maybe the stroke is to long. Think I will try a shorter stroke with the same compression ratio. The piston is 3.36 in. and the stroke is 3 in. I also think it has some ...

I recently purchased some 4in. graphite bar stock for piston material. I was surprised how easy it was to machine. The graphite piston made a huge difference. My first test showed more signs of running. When I removed the piston rod, I was surprised to see thar it ran very well in free piston mode. ...

I attempted a similar project about three years ago and came to the conclusion that the bellows needed to be very rigid. Your engine seems to have no compression at all. I had the same problem. I think the soft bellows absorb any compression. A diaphram may give better results. If your goal is ltd t...