Engine Part Help for Norway
Engine Part Help for Norway
I need some help from my European friends. There are two school teachers in Norway who want to build The Quick and Easy Stirling Engine with a class of 50 teenagers. The engine uses a 3/4" x 1/2" PVC pipe elbow as the drive cylinder. The teachers tell me that this part is not easy to find in Norway. Is there a reader on this forum who knows how to find this part in Norway, or perhaps a good substitute part that might be easy to find?
It looks similar to this:
It looks similar to this:
Jim Larsen
http://StirlingBuilder.com
http://StirlingBuilder.com
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
Jim, is your request real?
Is'nt In Norway found a normal pvc elbow, for hydraulic use???
I do not know "Quick and Easy.......", but a normal brass elbow is a lot better than pvc, (also if as bit more expensive). Less thermal expansion, and more hardy to friction.
Ferraccio
Is'nt In Norway found a normal pvc elbow, for hydraulic use???
I do not know "Quick and Easy.......", but a normal brass elbow is a lot better than pvc, (also if as bit more expensive). Less thermal expansion, and more hardy to friction.
Ferraccio
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
Some bits of plastic tube (hard), and some glue, and make your own. Ian S C
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
Here is an example of the Quick and Easy Stirling Engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTFfZk7Bg90
The plastic pipe elbow is better than metal for this application because all it does is hold the balloon diaphragm. For this application it needs to be cheap, easy to find, and easy to form. The end of the pipe that is against the can is shaped to match the contour of the can.
My friends in Norway are having a hard time finding these. I have looked online at plumbing supply websites in the UK and so far I don't see anything like this part. Amazon.co.uk sells the American part, but I don't know what shipping to Norway would cost.
It would be great if we could identify a simple plastic pipe elbow that could serve the same function. It needs to be able to tolerate about 200 degrees F.
The plastic pipe elbow is better than metal for this application because all it does is hold the balloon diaphragm. For this application it needs to be cheap, easy to find, and easy to form. The end of the pipe that is against the can is shaped to match the contour of the can.
My friends in Norway are having a hard time finding these. I have looked online at plumbing supply websites in the UK and so far I don't see anything like this part. Amazon.co.uk sells the American part, but I don't know what shipping to Norway would cost.
It would be great if we could identify a simple plastic pipe elbow that could serve the same function. It needs to be able to tolerate about 200 degrees F.
Jim Larsen
http://StirlingBuilder.com
http://StirlingBuilder.com
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
Jim, maybe look at electrical, rather than water fittings, there may be something there. Ian S C
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
That is an excellent idea. I will look into that.
Jim Larsen
http://StirlingBuilder.com
http://StirlingBuilder.com
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
I wonder if there might be some thing suitable in Leggo, or similar, must have a look. No dice there.
Might be worth a look, Norsok standard (petrolium Co) They use plastic pipe in all sizes, they might even sponsor the purchace, no harm in hoping. Web site:
www.standard.no/petroleum
Email:
petroleum@standard.no
Address:
Standards Norway
Strandveien 18, P.O. Box 242
N-1326 Lysaker
NORWAY
Phone no: +47 67 83 86 00 Ian S C good luck
Might be worth a look, Norsok standard (petrolium Co) They use plastic pipe in all sizes, they might even sponsor the purchace, no harm in hoping. Web site:
www.standard.no/petroleum
Email:
petroleum@standard.no
Address:
Standards Norway
Strandveien 18, P.O. Box 242
N-1326 Lysaker
NORWAY
Phone no: +47 67 83 86 00 Ian S C good luck
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
I live in UK, and I've never seen a fitting like that.
Some points:
It looks like an [obsolete ?? ] solvent weld type which are seldom used now. Most use the 'Speedfit' type now.
The wide end will not be 3/4". Standard UK sizes for pipe is 15mm or 22mm.
The 1/2" bit is not known here.
UK Pipe threads are designated by the BORE .... eg 1/8" BSP is 0.383 in. OD by 28 TPI. [ yes, you've read it right, ONE eighth ].
So, taking the nearest to 1/2" thread, 1/4" BSP is 0.520" in. OD by 19 TPI.
A similar fitting is commonly available in copper, but it will almost certainly have a compression connection instead of the internal thread.
EDIT Like the pic. except the pic is 15mm. tube.
Sorry, missed a bit ;
To clarify for those who do not use 'Inch' dimensions ..
in. is inches.
BSP is British Standard Pipe.
TPI Threads per Inch
Hope this helps,
Dave
Some points:
It looks like an [obsolete ?? ] solvent weld type which are seldom used now. Most use the 'Speedfit' type now.
The wide end will not be 3/4". Standard UK sizes for pipe is 15mm or 22mm.
The 1/2" bit is not known here.
UK Pipe threads are designated by the BORE .... eg 1/8" BSP is 0.383 in. OD by 28 TPI. [ yes, you've read it right, ONE eighth ].
So, taking the nearest to 1/2" thread, 1/4" BSP is 0.520" in. OD by 19 TPI.
A similar fitting is commonly available in copper, but it will almost certainly have a compression connection instead of the internal thread.
EDIT Like the pic. except the pic is 15mm. tube.
Sorry, missed a bit ;
To clarify for those who do not use 'Inch' dimensions ..
in. is inches.
BSP is British Standard Pipe.
TPI Threads per Inch
Hope this helps,
Dave
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
You can get a similar part in the UK, It's a 22mm push fit overflow overflow. I think they're used on toilet cisterns for the over flow. No idea
if you could get them in Norway though. I used them in some of my Stirling engines.
From the description "A 21.5mm solvent weld overflow system in PVC-U. No expansion gap required on the solvent weld overflow system. Apply solvent cement evenly to both surfaces of joint, insert pipe fully in the socket depth and remove surplus cement with a cloth. Allow five minutes to set before handling and twelve hours before testing the system. "
if you could get them in Norway though. I used them in some of my Stirling engines.
From the description "A 21.5mm solvent weld overflow system in PVC-U. No expansion gap required on the solvent weld overflow system. Apply solvent cement evenly to both surfaces of joint, insert pipe fully in the socket depth and remove surplus cement with a cloth. Allow five minutes to set before handling and twelve hours before testing the system. "
http://www.scraptopower.co.uk My web site, Stirling engines and AE stuff.
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
If ordering plastic fittings, proberbly best to specify hot water use just in case theres a difference. Ian S C
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
Thanks to all for your help. The leading candidate solution is this: http://vvskomplett.no/pvc-albu-for-liming-1
I appreciate the support of the Stirling engine community. You guys are great.
I appreciate the support of the Stirling engine community. You guys are great.
Jim Larsen
http://StirlingBuilder.com
http://StirlingBuilder.com
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
I was in the city today, and out of curiosity i had a look in the plumbing supply department of two or three shops, and found suitable elbows, a $NZ12 each, about 5 pounds sterling, there must be a cheaper way, because at least 50 are required, plus a few to cover c**K ups. Ian S C
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Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
Hello..
I think, you can get the drive cylinder from Ebay. There you get all the information about that product which helps you in making the project.. I think, you should check it out. Thanks.
_______________________________________
Have a look at: rectangular tube | handles and knobs
I think, you can get the drive cylinder from Ebay. There you get all the information about that product which helps you in making the project.. I think, you should check it out. Thanks.
_______________________________________
Have a look at: rectangular tube | handles and knobs
Re: Engine Part Help for Norway
While it's not the same, a tube attached to a bottle cap serves the same purpose, is easily found, and doesn't make a significant design change as far as operating characteristics are concerned. Still is "quick and easy", and I've even seen YT vids that use this configuration without sealant since the plastic tube can be easily fitted into a small hole without leakage.
If I seem argumentative, I apologize. I like to explore many sides of an issue.
I love to be shown I'm wrong, after all, Dad always said to learn from my mistakes!
I love to be shown I'm wrong, after all, Dad always said to learn from my mistakes!