Stirlingengineforum.com

Seem to be getting nowhere with this tin can engine.
The working piston is brass tube, filled w/ high temp RTV
With a finger over the hole it won't slide down, but drops out easily.
I wonder since it's inside the top, if it's not cooled enough.
I even added a little water to help cool.
I've done the displacer 3 times finally ended up
with one full of green foam. Maybe it's too heavy. The pictures are at the end of the video.
Maybe the whole rotating mass is too much weight.
It's fairly well balanced.
I redid the hole for the displacer rod, it's a slip fit. (string wouldn't work)
Maybe some one could look at the video and point to the right direction.
Thanks Pat
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ushL96Bt ... e=youtu.be

Hi Pat, I'm not an expert on tin can motors, but I'll see if I can help. Displacer, does the foam withstand the heat? It should not touch the sides. The wire coming out of the can should have a joint, so that the displacer stays straight, while the con rod moves sideways.
Are you trying to start the motor in the right direction, the displacer should lead the power piston by 90*.
I'll have another look at the video on Monday when I can get on broadband(on dial up now).
These motors can sometimes take a while to get going, keep at it. Ian S C

So far as I can tell it looks as though the hole where the displacer rod enters the can is much to big.
Is there any kind of bushing around the displacer rod ? I can't see one in the video, although it isn't
perfectly clear.

As well as that, there's no bendable linkage between the displacer rod and the crankshaft,
so it's wobbling quite a lot, and probably creating quite a lot of friction as well as continuously
widening the hole where the displacer rod enters the can. You can get away without the bearing
in the displacer rod linkage, but the wire has to be very thin.

Hope that helps,

Thanks guys
This version has no linkage in the displacer rod.
So it's swing like a pendulum. On the long version of the vid
the camera picked up a clicking noise I couldn't hear.
I put the can to my ear and could hear the piston scraping the side.
I'm going for a lighter displacer w/linkage.
Back to work.
Pat
PS the displacer hole has a repair on the bottom
no gland

After the engine heats up there should be resistance when you turn it over. Similar to a lawn mower when you pull the rope. Your engine shows no compression resistance. The engine just spins freely. You have an air leak .Soapy water is a good way to find the leak. Just don't heat it up to run after you find the leak(air bubbles).If it sucked in water ,steam buildup will blowup your engine .So let it dry out.

The displacer rod should be fitted through a a bush of some sort, a bit of brass tube, or a brass bolt with a hole drill down its length. The original motor had, I think a string of some sort, maybe nylon fishing line. As I said before, and others have said, the wire must have a joint. Get that sorted, report back, and if it does not go, we can have another look at it. Ian S C

Just an update
The rod one the displacer was leaking , tried a brass bush, no luck.
I think this type engine needs thin wire of fish line.
I put it aside, I've got other things to finish.
When i start again, I'll use darryl Boyd's plans for the beam engine.
Thanks for the help guys.
Pat

Hi Pat, perhaps you need a bigger hammer Come back with your next attempt, and we'll try and help.
Ian S C

There is a hammer at my work that you can borrow,
We call him "Mr Painless"



He is mighty persuasive..
vamoose